What is Tsumugi Silk?

Japanese woodblock print "A Woman Weaving, Seated at a Hand Loom", Artist: Kitagawa Utamaro, ca. 1796. Metropolitan Museum of Art, NYC
Image: Japanese woodblock print "A Woman Weaving, Seated at a Hand Loom", Artist: Kitagawa Utamaro, ca. 1796. Metropolitan Museum of Art, NYC
Though very expensive today due to the artisanal skills required for production, Japanese Tsumugi silk originated with farmers who made use of cocoons left over after they sent their best silk to market. They would collect the floss from the cocoons, spin it by hand pulling (tsumugi) into thread, and then weave Kimono for themselves and their families. Before weaving, starch is applied to the thread to make it smooth and to keep it from unraveling. The result is a crisp hand to the fabric which softens with wear of the Kimono, conforming to the body of the owner over time. While 100% silk, Tsumugi often has a cotton like feel. The pattern effect of this woven silk typically has a gentle blurring between color borders. Production of Tsumugi became an important local industry in nearly every prefecture in Japan. Particularly well known are Tsumugi from Yuki, Oshima, Kumejima, and Tokamachi, but there are many others as well. Kimono made from Tsumugi silk continue to be worn in keeping of tradition for only informal occasions, such as gatherings at home, shopping, traveling, or visits to friends.

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